Off-Grid Solutions: RV & Trailer

RV, Camper & Trailer Solar in Alberta

Three sized systems for how you actually camp, from a two-night weekend to three straight rainy days. We model your real loads against eleven summers of Alberta sun and tell you the honest odds of running out.

Three tiers: weekend, long weekend, and three rainy days
Self-heating lithium so it charges on a cold morning
We design around panels or a battery you already own
Sized to your rig, not a one-size boxed kit

Call Us Directly

(587) 330-7502

Free 15-Minute Design Review

Tell us your rig and how you camp and we will match you to a tier and price it.

What the System Has to Power

We build the design around a real load model for a typical 20 to 30 foot Alberta travel trailer: a propane fridge with a 12 volt board, the propane furnace blower, the water pump, LED lights, phones and laptops, a TV, and a microwave and coffee maker used for a few minutes. Add it all up and a typical day draws about 1,250 watt-hours from the battery. A light user is closer to 1.0 kWh a day, a heavy user about 1.62 kWh. Those three numbers are what move you up or down a tier.

The microwave draws about 1,400 watts while it runs and nothing else large runs at the same instant, so a 2,000 watt pure-sine inverter covers the first two tiers. Tier 3 steps up to 3,000 watts for the headroom to run two things at once.

This is a camping-power system. A rooftop air conditioner is a different scale of load and gets its own tier, Option 4, further down this page.

Three Tiers, Sized to How You Camp

Each tier is a real hourly simulation against southern Alberta summer weather, not a catalogue guess. Installed prices below include the lithium battery, which most branded kits leave out. We reconcile the exact number to your rig.

Tier 1

Weekend

200 W solar, 100 Ah battery (1.15 kWh usable), 2,000 W pure-sine inverter

A two-night system. You arrive with a full battery and 200 watts of panel tops it up through the day. In a sunny weekend it is plenty; over four days the load outruns the panel, and the table says so. The honest use is Friday-to-Sunday.

around $2,400 installed, GST included

Tier 2

Long weekend

400 W solar, 200 Ah battery (2.30 kWh usable), 2,000 W inverter/charger, DC-DC charger

The everyday system. In typical Alberta summer weather it finishes a four-day trip full about 95% of the time. Its one weak spot is a genuine three-day overcast, which the built-in DC-DC charger covers on any drive between camps. This is the one most people should buy.

around $3,900 installed, GST included

Tier 3

Three rainy days

600 W solar, 400 Ah battery (4.61 kWh usable), 3,000 W inverter, DC-DC charger

The never-think-about-it system. The 400 Ah bank alone carries 3.7 days with no sun at all, so it never went dark on any window across eleven summers of weather data, on typical or heavy use. This is the answer for the camper who will not carry a generator and will not ration.

around $6,300 installed, GST included

For comparison, Calgary RV solar shops advertise panel-and-electronics kits from roughly $1,380 to $2,700 and larger inverter packages up to about $6,470, and most of those do not include a battery. Our installed prices land mid-pack once the battery and the fitting are counted.

Running the Air Conditioning (Option 4)

A rooftop RV air conditioner is a different scale of load, about 1,500 watts while it runs, and it deserves an honest answer. No trailer-sized solar array can replace it day after day. The way it actually works is this: you run the air conditioner off a large lithium battery for the hours you want on a hot afternoon, and you recover the battery with shore power, a small generator, or by driving. Solar is a helper here, not the source. A 600 watt roof array returns about 2.1 kWh on an average southern Alberta summer day, and six hours of rooftop A/C is 8.5 kWh, so the panels replace roughly a quarter of one day of cooling.

So Option 4 is built around the battery and a 3,000 watt inverter with a soft-start that lets it start the compressor. Each battery below is sized to run its air conditioner for one hot afternoon and finish the day. To run the A/C for several days in a row you run it on shore power or a generator during the hot hours, which is the cheapest and most practical route, and the battery then only carries the fridge, lights and the evening.

There is a quieter alternative. A DC inverter air conditioner draws about half the power of a rooftop unit, needs no large inverter and has no start surge, so the same battery carries it through a hot two or three day trip in our simulation with room to spare. It cools a smaller area than a 13,500 BTU rooftop unit, and it costs more per unit, but it is the honest choice if you want air conditioning that runs off the battery.

Air conditioningAdded load per dayBattery (usable)InverterInstalled, GST incl.
4 hours, rooftop A/C5,667 Wh8.5 kWh (7.7 usable)3,000 W + soft-startfrom about $10,800
6 hours, rooftop A/C8,500 Wh11.5 kWh (10.4 usable)3,000 W + soft-start$12,088
8 hours, rooftop A/C11,333 Wh15 kWh (13.5 usable)3,000 W + soft-startabout $15,000
6 hours, DC inverter A/C3,600 Wh11.5 kWh (10.4 usable)none neededquote on request

Added load is on top of the roughly 1.25 kWh per day camping base. The 6 hour build is fully sourced today at 12 volts; the 4 and 8 hour prices scale with battery size and are approximate. At this size a 48 volt battery is the better engineering choice and we would build the larger ones that way. If the trailer already has a rooftop air conditioner, remove that line and the price drops by about $1,575. Prices are Canadian dollars, installed, GST included, and are confirmed before any order.

The Rainy-Day Question: Money vs Hardware

Three grey days in a row are the real test. On the worst three consecutive days in the weather record a panel makes only about 130 watt-hours a day per 100 watts of array, which is almost nothing. There are three honest ways to cover that, cheapest first.

Drive with a DC-DC charger

A 30 amp DC-DC charger puts about 380 watts into the bank for every hour you drive or fast-idle the tow vehicle. An hour on the road between camps, or a half-hour idle, meaningfully refills it. On Tiers 2 and 3 this is built in.

A small inverter generator

A 2,000 to 2,400 watt inverter generator run for about two hours adds roughly a kilowatt-hour and works in any weather. The trade is noise, fuel, and carrying it. Cheaper than doubling the battery.

A bigger battery (Tier 3)

Buy enough lithium that three rainy days simply do not matter. The quietest and simplest option, and the most expensive way to buy the same insurance.

Our usual advice: Tier 2 plus a DC-DC charger covers most rainy-day worries for the least money. Tier 3 is for the camper who wants to never think about it and never hear a generator.

The Equipment and Why

Self-heating lithium iron phosphate so the pack warms itself and charges on a cold shoulder-season morning
A 12 volt bank, which is the right call for a trailer this size; a 48 volt bank buys nothing and costs more
Pure-sine inverter, 2,000 watts on Tiers 1 and 2 and 3,000 watts on Tier 3, with an inverter/charger so shore power tops the bank at a campground
A combined solar and alternator charger on Tiers 2 and 3, so driving between camps refills the battery
A 500 amp shunt monitor so you see true state of charge, not a guess
Correctly sized cable, fusing and a DC disconnect, sized up with the inverter

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, with a dedicated system, and we will be honest about what that means. A rooftop RV air conditioner is a large load, about 1,500 watts while it runs, so it gets its own tier, Option 4, built around a big lithium battery and a 3,000 watt inverter with a soft-start. That battery will run the air conditioner for a hot afternoon on its own. What no trailer-sized solar array can do is replace it day after day: a 600 watt roof recovers about a quarter of one day of cooling. So to run the A/C for several days you run it on shore power or a small generator during the hot hours, or you choose a DC inverter air conditioner, which draws about half as much and runs straight off the battery. The three camping tiers have no air conditioning by design; Option 4 is the one that does.

It depends on the tier and the weather, and we give you the honest odds rather than a slogan. Tier 1 is a two-night system that leans on arriving with a full battery. Tier 2 finishes a typical four-day trip full about 95% of the time; its weak spot is three straight grey days. Tier 3 carries 3.7 days on the battery alone with no sun at all, and never went dark on any two, three or four-day window across eleven summers of Alberta weather data.

Yes. If your rig already has panels or a battery worth keeping, we design around them rather than making you throw them out. That is a difference from a boxed kit that only works as a matched set. We check what you have, size the gap, and add only what the system actually needs.

For a trailer, yes. Lithium iron phosphate gives you far more usable depth from the same weight and space and lasts far longer. The one Alberta caveat is cold: lithium delivers power fine in the cold but must not be charged below freezing, so for shoulder-season camping we spec a self-heating pack that warms itself before it accepts the morning sun. A no-heat pack is the value option for a strict summer user.

Three grey days in a row make a 200 watt array produce almost nothing, so the honest answer is a hedge, cheapest first. A DC-DC charger puts about 380 watts into the bank for every hour you drive or idle the tow vehicle, so an hour on the road between camps meaningfully refills it. A small inverter generator run for a couple of hours adds about a kilowatt-hour in any weather. Or you buy Tier 3 and never think about it. We recommend Tier 2 plus a DC-DC charger for most people.

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Get Your Rig Off the Post

Book a free 15-minute design review. We match you to a tier, size it to your rig, and quote it. Typical installs run two to six weeks out.

Book a Call (587) 330-7502

Serving campers and RVers across Alberta.